Posts by abraxa

    Did you try another power supply?

    If you hold the arp edit button while powering up the Virus, it'll perform a factory reset. I'm not sure if your user patches are preserved or not, so I hope you have them saved. If you're afraid of losing patches, don't do that just yet.

    If it doesn't boot up after the factory reset, you can put it in firmware update mode and reload the firmware that way. You do that by holding exit while powering up. The Virus control center should then be able to find it and allow you to reload the firmware. While I don't suspect this to solve the issue, you can try this as a last resort. I would suspect a hardware issue however, so try another power supply first.

    Can you try a different power supply? 9 or 12V, at least 1A, plug with + inside and - outside.

    Also, can you bring up the version information? You can unplug the Virus TI power supply, then hold TAP and CONFIG while plugging it back in. You should then see the serial number.

    Note: I desoldered the original DSP and soldered in a new DSP - the Virus worked flawlessly again. Since I'm curious like that, I soldered the original DSP back in again to verify. The Virus also worked flawlessly again, much to my surprise. This leaves me to assume that there must've been a cracked solder joint on one of the DSP's legs, as unlikely as it seems. It does somewhat explain though why the crashes didn't immediately occur when the Virus had been off for a while. Not a single crash so far, let's see how it goes. Should the crashes return I'll put the new DSP in again but so far it doesn't appear to be necessary.

    > Seems something weird going on there

    Indeed. I'd expect a hardware fault to either be always present or temperature-related, not appear in different modes of the device.

    > all the Multi presets have strange names like ‘U*U**L*H*’

    Maybe the battery that was placed in the Virus isn't fully fresh and has aged in the packaging? I'd try a new one cause that's SRAM corruption for sure.

    Unfortunately, I'm in Germany and not Ireland, so I can't recommend anyone in your area. If you search around but can't find anyone to do it for you, I'll see what I can do if you're willing to ship.

    > Not sure what that means?

    It means the programs running on the Virus DSP and support MCU are working just fine - it's just the circuit for checking the button state that's broken - a hardware fault, likely on the user interface PCB, not the main PCB. Do you have a place that can check it out for you?

    Since this is an issue with the internal multiplexing of the switches, I'd say that a part of the multiplexing circuit isn't working properly anymore. Could be one of the ICs used on the user interface PCB.

    It could also be a simple contact problem with the connectors, so re-seating the flat ribbon connectors is a worthwhile thing to try.

    > It sometimes crash or not boot up properly.

    The voltage regulator that you marked with 2V is a 3.3V regulator (SPX1117 in TO-252 packaging), meaning the pin where the white line ends is ADJ/GND and not the output. 2V would make sense for the adjustable version since that would produce a 3.25V output but if it's not the adjustable output version, this pin should show 0V. It would be interesting to know what voltage the right-side pin (input) and the base plate (output) show.

    The other voltage regulator in the same packaging is an MC33269 (marking 269AJ) with two resistors configuring it for 1.8V output. Hence, the base plate should show this voltage. Since the voltage on the ADJ pin is Vout-1.25V, the 0.5V you give is actually correct, so we know that the 1.8V rail is at least working.

    My first course of action would be to try a different external power supply (9-12V, - outside/+ inside) and if that doesn't help, the internal power supply needs to be examined more closely. I'd assume the 3.3V rail isn't working as intended, for example because one or more of the SMD capacitors are faulty and can't keep the voltage stable reliably.

    Possibly but it could also be the internal 5V regulator - I had a buzzing sound in my Virus C when it failed. Do you have a suitable power supply you can use for testing? Anything between 9 and 12V will work as long as it can provide 1A and has the correct plug (- outside, + inside).

    is a video that shows how to open the TI 61 up. The power supply on the right hand side simply plugs into the PCB that holds the audio and MIDI connectors. If you have a power supply you can try out, just plug it in there instead.

    If the buzzing remains then my guess would be the 5V regulator, which needs soldering skills to replace.

    From my experience, Access does try to help to the best of their abilities but since this is something a user can't fix without opening the case, it'll most likely be met with a "send the unit in and we'll have a look" - understandable but potentially overkill. I'm from Germany by the way, so depending on how your own attempts go, I can offer to examine the main PCB if you're willing to remove it from the synth and ship it to me. Unfortunately, I currently don't have replacement DSPs on hand but if it's a power supply issue then we'll be able to find a solution.

    So you have a Polar or Keyboard then. In that case, the 12V power supply is inside the case. Depending how much effort you're willing to put into it to verify that it's not the power supply, you could try a few things:

    1) Make a backup of your RAM banks to your computer so no presets are lost

    2) Open up the case

    3) Replace the battery and check if it works properly again

    4) If that doesn't work, unplug the internal power supply and try a different one

    5) If that still didn't work, try reloading the firmware

    If none of that helps then there's a more complex issue that would require more thorough debugging abilities. Are you located in Europe, by the way, or elsewhere?

    For #4, there's a thread here: and a video here:

    Thanks for the feedback! There's nothing to worry about regarding the scraping if you didn't leave tin around that could detach and short something if it comes off later. The scratch mark itself is no issue but if you're unsure, feel free to follow up with a picture.

    I wouldn't be concerned and enjoy the working Virus :)