Posts by abraxa

    Hi Rob,

    Can't say I've encountered this before but I'd suspect there to be something blocking the key - maybe a protruding piece of plastic or housing, or maybe even a small foreign object that needs to be removed. The only way to really know is to open it up and have a look, which as you can imagine may not go well with the seller.

    In terms of expenses, I'd expect such a repair to be doable without replacement parts. If a part should be needed, I wouldn't expect anything more than the key itself.

    Hope that helped and I'm certainly interested in hearing how things develop for you!

    It's interesting you feel compelled to advertise for this thinly-veiled group of piracy enablers on the official forum of the company that created it.

    The Virus is very much still for sale ( ), so if indeed they're spreading their TI emulator around, they're breaking even their own promise of keeping it to themselves as long as Access is selling the TI.

    Thanks for being a part of the community that removes any incentive for Access to continue with the synth business.

    The Virus keyboards are among the best synth keyboards you will find, so if you decide to go the keyboard version route it's unlikely that you'll regret it. The Virus doesn't have a sequencer but it can do keyboard split at least. If size is of paramount concern for you and you don't need immediate access to the Virus front panel then you may prefer to use a master keyboard.

    The link with the recordings unfortunately doesn't work for me - I receive a 404 error message.


    The TI2 handles the patch as a SPLIT playing other parts as well and has to be really pushed to break up, the DS gives up much sooner

    I'm a little confused - isn't your Darkstar also a TI2? So you have a TI2 desktop and a TI2 Darkstar?

    > I'd rather not get into a debate with the vendor from ebay and the listing did state that he "would not take returns"

    From what I understand, that clause is only valid if the item sold arrives as described. If it's faulty and the seller conveniently left out this fact, you should be able to dispute the purchase and demand a refund.

    That said, can you upload an audio sample?

    Please also perform the following test:

    - Leave Virus off for 30 minutes

    - Turn Virus on and play the sustained pad that causes the crackling

    - Leave Virus on for 30 minutes

    - Play the sustained pad again

    When boes the crackling appear? Immediately after starting from cold? Does it become worse after 30 minutes? Does it stay the same?

    As you can probably guess, I want to see if temperature plays a role. There's a 5V regulator on the main board that runs too hot because Access didn't give it a big enough heat sink. That regulator feeds the output circuitry, so it's plausible that it needs replacement. However, it would suck if you'd replace it only to find that it's something else. Unlikely from my point of view, but possible. Hence why going the return route *may* make more sense.

    You could measure the 5V coming out of the regulator but if you take the Virus apart to access the internals, your chance for a refund may be impacted, so I'd only recommend doing this once you know for a fact that you're going to keep it.

    Some threads that may be worth considering:

    Aus der Community AccessVirus auf Reddit
    Entdecke diesen Beitrag und mehr aus der Community AccessVirus

    As soon as USB is connected, the MIDI ports on the Virus are turned into a MIDI interface that is disconnected from the sound engine. Hence, the only way to do this is to route the MIDI interface in port to the Virus Synth MIDI port on the PC. How to do this depends on the OS and/or DAW that you use.

    > it's happening to me with a brand new Ti2 with integrated power supply and still under warranty

    I'd have it replaced/repaired under warranty then. What you're experiencing is not normal operation and hints at something being broken on the hardware level. Even *if* it were a purely software problem internal to the Virus, I would rather confirm this with a second unit rather than let this unit fall out of warranty.

    Looks like a hardware issue to me - maybe an unstable connection to one of the flat ribbon cables, maybe something in the ADC signal chain that samples the potentiometers. Would've been nice to know if the volume pot still worked before you turned it off or if that one stopped responding as well.

    If it *didn't* stop responding then that's a clue that the analog muxing of the potentiometers isn't working.

    > I found some twisted connector cables, and a keyboard connection looks pretty sketch to me (both shown in the pictures), Is this normal?

    Not sure if the twist is standard but I can see why it may be done. The keyboard connection is perfectly normal and that's the way the cable is mounted in the factory.

    > Also found what looked like mold inside part of the machine...

    Think of it as a kind of glue to keep the aftertouch strip in place. The strip is very fragile and needs support to stay in place. I highly suggest you move the strip as little as possible as breaking something within one of its conductive layers will be a headache.

    > it got stuck on the welcome screen.

    Sounds to me like it detected illegal RAM contents and was performing a factory reset. That may take a few seconds.

    > I opened it back up to replace the motherboard battery - which also didn't fix it (the battery is held in place with electrical tape now - if that comes loose, will I lose any user data?).

    Did you use a new battery? Why is the battery held in place with electrical tape? The battery holder holds it securely just fine. And yes, the RAM is backed by this battery. Battery low or out = RAM contents gone.

    > It seems to be working normally now - and I eventually got it to communicate with Studio One, but the welcome screen freeze concerns me, and it seems like posts about that problem show up from time to time. Is that something to worry about? Is there a known cause/permanent fix if it continues?

    If it persists with a brand-new battery then I'd strongly suspect the power supply. As power supplies age, their ability to supply peak currents reduces. During boot-up, the Virus draws the most current, so if the power supply can't keep up due to old age, anything can happen - including it getting stuck on the boot up screen. A new power supply can be had for relatively cheap, so if the issue bothers you it could be a good investment. Or maybe you already have a suitable one at home that you can try. Any current supply ability above 1A is fine - just watch out for the voltage and polarity.

    Your cable is fine - it just means the cable itself is capable of serving up to 13A but the Virus draws nowhere near that amount of current. Any fuse will do, really, as it protects your home in case the internal power supply decides to malfunction. For this, a 3A fuse should be perfect - enough to permit the initial inrush current, not enough to permit continous excessive current draw.

    Do make sure the Virus accepts 240 Volts, though. I'd assume all models do but best to verify.

    Assembly here merely means that they're both sitting on a structure that can be removed from the case as a whole - instead of each control being mounted individually. It makes maintenance and repair easier, actually.


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    help you?

    Not sure I'd buy them ahead of time if they're not broken (yet). There are distributors in Asia and elsewhere sitting on stock that's going to sell rather slowly, so prices should remain stable for the foreseeable future, in my opinion.

    Best to check first whether a DSP is broken or whether it's something else.